Chris Yew’s Blue Grass and Albino Blue Grass

January 26, 2007 at 12:49 am | Posted in Guppies Onli Collection, Past Collection | Leave a comment

This one also don’t know F what already. Setback is the caudal is not straight and the pattern on dorsal not define yet.

same fish;

This Albino Blue Grass is spawned from the above male and it’s about 2.5mths old;

same fish;

Effect of Female Caudal on Male types

January 26, 2007 at 12:01 am | Posted in General | Leave a comment

Most of the breeders will tell you the shape of caudal and body to select for female when you wish to breed them. But not many will tell you the type of pattern and color to select for to produce what sort of male.

Here are my thoughts and experiments on such female caudals. It may not apply to all females spawn but nevertheless, in most of my trials – the results proved positive.

Female 1 type – With both darker (or can be blue or yellow or other color) streaks at the top and bottom of the caudal with center no color or pattern;

Such female usually produces male with patterns with center part less color and pattern; and also lyre look type of tail. Photos of such males are shown below;

This type of female caudal has evenly spread color and pattern. If your desired male is blue grass or blue based pattern, choose one female with more blue intensed blue color as below;
(Disregard the swallow extended fin – take it as without the swallow gene).

Female 2a;

Used to produce such Male 2b;
Dots are not so well defined.

Female 2b;
(Disregard the extended bottom fin of this swallow female; the more intense blue color and more defined dots are selected).

OK, finally found this female grass photo. This is a good example of a female grass with good patterns and color based for producing good male blue grass.

Male 2a;
Such female will produce this type of male (better colored caudal with more defined dots).

Red Grass;
If your desired male is like red grass like this Male 2c, then your female should be like Female 2a with less blue based color and more yellowish based for caudal. The caudal of the female has some darker shade of black will produce the male with a darker background color.
Male 2c;

Female 3;
Such female color and pattern on the caudal is a bit confusing and tacky. A number of various strains of males can be produced using such similar female – males like albino full red, albino coral red grass, etc..

Male 3;
Albino Coral Red Grass – This male is produced using the above type of female. Go for more defined patterns and intensed red on the female caudal.

Female 4;
For albino coral red mosaic, the female is less red base and more yellow.

Male 4;
Albino coral red mosaic. Compared the female and male with the albino coral red grass.

Male5;
To produce a good Half-Metal male (this photo shows a Half-Metal Cobra), use a female with darker black based caudal. It’s also good if there are some patterns of the male caudal).

Female5;
Such female is used to produce the half-metal male. If a non-black based is used, the half-metal male (fore front part of the male body) pattern will not be well defined.

Female 6;
This is a female snakeskin (not in good finnage due to sickness) and you may see some similar pattern and color like the male. Snakeskin may be easiy available from the lfs but usually only the male and not female. So one may not visualise how a female snakeskin may be. Choose one that has similar pattern and color on the female caudal and dorsal as the male.

Male 6;
This is a male snakeskin. The father is a topsword snakeskin and of ‘wild’ type. You may see that the snakeskin pattern is not of IFGA standard with no much ‘interlocking’. Anyway, in this example – is to show how a female snakeskin like : female 6.

Below are posted by Michel Bruno;

Like you said:
Female 7;
This is a Lace Snakeskin`s female. Choose one that has clear pattern in the caudal and dorsal. Female with clear pattern produces males with more lace pattern.

Male 7;
This is a Lace Snakeskin`s male. You may see that the snakeskin pattern is IFGA standard.

Female Guppy

January 25, 2007 at 7:13 am | Posted in General | Leave a comment

Very often when we buy a female guppy together with the male, the female guppy is usually ‘prehit’. Also we may not know if the female was ‘prehit’ by the same strain or another. Only time can tell when the fries are big enough and that will take about 2 or more months.

If the female was ‘prehit’ by another strain, then it is difficult to wait for the female to completely ‘clear’ up all the unwanted strain sperm as the female can store the male sperm up to 5 to 8 birth.

Here is what I’ve read in some article;

One will have up to 3 days to breed your desired male with that ‘prehit’ female immediately after she has given birth.

The percentage given are just average. If you will to put your desired male together with the ‘prehit’ female immediately on the day it gives birth, you will have 75% of the next spawn where the father is from the desired one where 25% is from the previous father.

If you put the desired male one day after the female gave birth, the percentage is 50% from the new father and the other 50% from the previous father. So if it’s 3 days or 72 hours after giving birth, it’s 25% from new father and 75% from previous father. Now if on the 4th day or 96hrs after giving birth, you will not be having any chances from the new father but 100% from the previous father.

So to play safe, put the desired male in with the ‘prehit’ female within 3days after the female gave birth. I’m still waiting for a chance to try it, what about you?

Mr.Erwin said;

This method of storing sperm is of great use in the guppies wild
habitat. Because of the constant moving water and mountains
(longterm) the fish are sometimes separated from the rest and
a few female fish have to set up a new population.
After the second mating (new partner) the outcome will be 50-50.
But in the future drops, the old sperm will play a greater part than
we expect. It’s probably all to improve genetic differenciation that
the old stored sperm is not just replaced with new.
So if you want to get a pure-breeding strain (or keep it) just never
use a prehit female if the male is unknown. Not even after a few
drops.
I’ve never heard of dropping sperm packs, maybe people here
mean dropping the undeveloped young (eggs) because of the stress?
Thats why we should avoid to move the female to give birth..
A male needs only 48 hours to get 100% of the females pregnant.
(When it’s the female’s first drop it will take some weeks extra)
So after giving birth you can put the male and female together and
after two or three days just remove the male. The female has her own
planted tank to give birth, no extra mouth to chase the young and no
stress.

Lazyman way of Hatching and Feeding of BBS

January 25, 2007 at 6:48 am | Posted in General | Leave a comment

1. First you need at least 2 bottles of such ‘kuay’ or PET container. Size is depending on the amount of BBS you required for your feed.

2. Best to change a new container every 3 to 6mths as these containers are not meant for reused. See the number in the triangle is Number 1.

3. Remember to rinse and wash with just tap water before and after use. Fill the container with tap water (if you are worried, you may add little water conditioner like Aquaplus, but I don’t) up to the line marking as shown;

4. Next add one scoop of Salt (normal table salt will do for me). The amount of salt to be added depends on the brand of bbs you buy. For me, I’m using this amount;

But the amount you can adjust accordingly. If you see the hatch rate is no good after 24hrs, increase the salt amount a bit by bit.

5. Always use a level scoop for the bbs egg. Depending on the hatch rate of the bbs brand, you may adjust the number of scoops required. Best to start with 1 scoop for a smaller container and if the hatch rate is no good, then increase by another scoop. For me, I use 2 scoops.

6. After putting in the bbs eggs, it’s done. Make a hole thru the cap of the container so that the air tube can goes thru. You can either put a airstone or tied a lead round the end of the tube.

Remember this;
Start with hatching of 1st container. After 24hrs you can harvest it and start feeding your fries. As you start feeding with the 1st container, start preparing the same with the 2nd container. Alternate the feeding using this 2 containers, i.e. after finish feeding using the 1st container, use the 2nd container for feeding which should be on the next day; then clean and prepare again for the 1st container.

7. For feeding of the hatched bbs, I use a dropper which can be cheaply purchased from any pharmacy. Depending on the number of fries and size of tanks, I usually drop 3 to 8 drops.

To me, it’s ok to suck in all the contents and drop into the fries tank which include the bbs, unhatched shell (which not to many usually) and the salt water.

Food affecting the Fertility of your Females

January 25, 2007 at 6:39 am | Posted in General | Leave a comment

Most of us feed the same types of food for our guppy males and females. But there are some researches done on the types of food that affect the fertility of female guppies.

Best type of food for high fertility are;
– Chopped Earthworm or Bloodworm
– Beef Heart
– Live tubiflex
– Hatched Baby Brine Shrimp

Type of food result in medium to low fertility are;
– Dry flake food
– Freeze dry brine shrimp and tubiflex
– White worms
– Bread

Live food that are rich in fatty acids (earthworm and bloodworm) improves the fertility of females. Those feeding dried food like flake should choose those with a good amount of fatty acid if used for feeding females. The male / female ratios of the fry were about the same for all types of food. Those fed a diet high in plant protein also causes low fertility.

So if you wish to have a large spawn like 180 fries, choose bloodworms. Medium spawn like 50 fries choose flakes or freeze dried brine shrimp, low spawn of 10 fries or less, use bread will do.

Do Guppy have Teeth and Tongue?

January 25, 2007 at 6:33 am | Posted in General | 2 Comments

Haha, see the pictures below and think before answering!

 

So do guppy have teeth and tongue? Haha, believed it or not, guppy have both teeth and tongue.

Guppies have teeth in their jaws and in the roof of their mouth as well. In the mouth there is a tongue.

Guppies have “pharyngeal teeth,” which are little growths of calcified tissue at the back of the oral cavity. The teeth are used to crush the food, but their is really not much force behind the crushing action.

The tongue however do not resemble the muscular tongues of humans. The tongue of a guppy is formed from a fold in the floor of the mouth.

In Love with Guppy

January 25, 2007 at 3:31 am | Posted in General | Leave a comment

Guppy Club (Singapore) made headlines in the local Chinese Paper Lian He Zao Bao. Interviews were conducted in Dr. Yeo’s house together with Chris Ng.

Here is the newspaper cutout;

 

Translated into English by me is found here;

In Love With Guppy

Sorry if there is any error..

How much electrical bill your pump cost you?

January 25, 2007 at 3:10 am | Posted in General | Leave a comment

I’ve been asked this question and I think it may interest some of you : If I’m using a 4W OHF, how much will it cost me for my electricity bill in a month?

Power can be denoted by kW : same as 1000 W
Your electrical meter is in kWh and this is not Power but Energy!
Which means Energy = Power x Time : kW x hour of use.

For example, my Resun pump is 12 W and I on it for whole day in a month.
12W = 0.012kW
In 1 day, it’s Energy is 0.012 x 24hr = 0.288kWh
In 1 month (assuming 30days), it’s Energy consumption is 8.64kWh
Our electrical tarriff is $0.158 per kWh, so in 1 month it’s ;
8.64kWh x 0.158 = $1.37

So my 12W Resun pump costs me $1.37 per month in electrical bill.

For info, this is much lower than your computer consumption. Your pc may be running on a 250W or 300W power supply (of course actual consumption may be lower than that 250W or 300W rated max power). Assuming it’s actual power consumption is 200W and you use your pc for at least 8 hours a day and everyday in a mth; so your bill for using your pc in a mth will be approx. $7.58!

Of course, a 4W OHF consumption will be much lower than my 12W Resun pump.

Note : There must be some +/- for manufacturers overspec or underspec hehe. If I made a mistake in the above calculation, pls correct me, too long never do this already.

Chris Yew’s Orange and Green Endlers

January 25, 2007 at 2:59 am | Posted in Endlers | 3 Comments

This was my first few generations of Endlers;

Orange Endlers;
Trying to generate a more Orangy Endler by selecting those with more orange patches to breed;

And subsequent spawn after few generations;

Green Endlers;
While on the other hand, I’m also trying to breed out the Orange color to try and get a more Green Endler. See the orange is getting lesser and the Green is actually more intense than shown;

Same Endler, but taken with flash. See the reflection to see how green the body is;

Various types of Endlers

January 25, 2007 at 2:48 am | Posted in Endlers | Leave a comment

The various types of Endlers;

Credit;
www.aquariumhobbyist.c…page2a.htm

Double Bottom Sword Ender;

Top Sword Endler;

Credit ;
www.geocities.com/endl…chest.html
Solid Orange Endler;

Snakeskin Endler;
Credit ;
www.geocities.com/endl…stock.html

Black Tuxedo Endler;
Credit ;
endlerslivebearer.net/…dlers.html

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