First I would like to congralutate the GCS for successfully holding the 4th GCS National Guppy Competition from 25 to 28 May 2006 at Bukit Timah Plaza. Despite the lack of manpower this time round, the club manage to improve on the setting up of the rack especially on the lightings using T5s lights though a paper flap to cover the glare of the light would be much appreciated (also to prevent itchy hands from touching the fishes in the tank hehe).
I am honoured to be appointed as 1 of the 3 official judges for this competition besides Richard Woon and Foo Hong. As usual, none of us judges are taking part in the competition to ensure fairness.
1. This time round the standard of the Delta category has gone up compared to the past few shows. Standard in the form of finnages, shapes and size. So judging takes longer and maybe about 6 hours or more.
2. For the 1st round, each judge is to select the best 5 out of each Class. So there will be a minimum of 5 best selected or a maximum of 15 if there isn’t any common selection of the same fish by the judges in each class.
3. In the 1st round judging, I’m eliminating those fishes that do not meet the criteria of each class first. This will be easier if the standard of the entrants are similar or close in standard for each class. After elimination, there may be more than 5 fishes in my list. So from this list, I’ll start to select the better 5 for the next round judging in each class. The selected 5 will have stickers pasted on their tanks by the respective judges. So a selected tank my have 1, 2 or 3 stickers.
4. For this show, all the 3 judges are not judging as a team so no discussion or exchange of views are taking place during the initial rounds of judging. This is good as the is no peer influence on the decision made by each judge. Each judge are individually judging their each class at their own pace.
5. Once the 1st round of judging is completed (the selection of the best 5 in each class), the round 2 is the technical judging which is more details.
6. For round 2 judging, onli the tanks with the sticker will be judged by each individual judge regardless of 1 sticker or 2 or 3 stickers. This is very fair as, if one of the judges selected a tank that the other 2 didn’t select, that tank will still have to be judged by the other 2 judges in details.
7. I’m seeing some of those tanks with one sticker ended up doing well in the technical judging and even those with 3 stickers on the tank may or may not do well in the technical judging. So what does this mean? It means that the fish may look appealing initially but when measure against the judging standard criteria, it falls short compared to the other fishes which are also selected.
8. This way of judging though slow, but will ‘force’ the judges to take a second or third look at the fish in detail in accordance to the judging standards.
9. Once round 2 is completed, the marks are compiled by the committee to select the best 5 in each class. If there is a tie, the judges will discuss and decide which is the better one.
10. For the Grand Champion and Best Breeder Award, the Champion of each class are placed together and the 3 judges will then ‘eyeball’ for their best. If there is a difference in opinion, then reasons are ‘debated’ as to why is it better than the other one.
Note : Selecting the Grand Champion is a difficult task.
Here are some of my personal opinions of some of the entrants;
1. I’m rather disappointed with the Class 1 (A and B) entrants. After so many shows, it’s still the same Moscow Black, Blue and Full Red. There isn’t much new strains to look at eg. like Green Deltas. Also for established strains like Moscow and Full Red, the Caudal and Dorsal shape still have yet to reach perfection – usually the Caudal falls short from standard.
See the Caudal of this still fall short of expectation;
2. The Full Red standard in this show has not shown improvement in finnages in terms of dorsal and caudal. But color wise, it’s better in general.
Note : Dorsal and Caudal still not perfect yet;
3. Surprisingly this show, there isn’t much Full Gold to look at! Full Gold players – buck up pls.
4. The Bi-color class is a bit on the ‘slim’ side for the body size and shape. But the Caudal and Dorsal shape are much better than Class 1.
A good size penducle thickness but loose out in the Caudal size and body length;
Note : 4th placing by Jack Ng.
5. For this Class 3 – Variegated, Mosaic and Grass; the most disappointing is the standard of Blue Grass has dropped. The dots are not well defined and evenly distributed – I’m seeing some small and big dots on the same caudal. Also the color of the caudal are getting lighter and uneven shade. The caudal shape also not up to expectation too.
Really hope to see more Mosaic players and also the increase in standard of the Grass.
I’m impressed with the Caudal Shape of this albino mosaic; But the imperfection of the dorsal shape, body shape and size and also the caudal pattern pull the points down;
Note : 4th placing by Dr. Yeo.
6. This time the standard of Class 4 – Snakeskin and Cobra has gone up a bit. Especially the body pattern of some winners are remarkably contrasting and outstanding. It’s good to see contrasting pattern of snakeskin marking on body and that makes a snakeskin stand out.
7. The disappointing part is too many Red Lace players; I’m sure other snakeskin do look nice too but juz too many entrants on Red Lace which makes this class rather boring.
8. Also please take not the the dorsal and caudal are slightly too big for the fish for some winners. As such, the caudal are mainly ‘jagged’ and not straight.
Jagged caudal makes imperfection but contrasting body marking is good;
Note : 1st placing in Class 4.
9. The AOC and Extended tail Class 5 is rather interesting and impressive class to judge this time. Pls note that for Sword Tail, the perfect sword tip must be sharp pointing and not ‘blunt’ or ’rounded’.
10. I impressed with this 2 fishes;
This is a very nice double sword but it loose out on the smallish body size. Though I’m not expecting a very big body size, but a similar size as the 1st placing double sword would see this 3rd placing goes up to the first or second;
Note : 3rd placing by Derrick Tan.
11. The 1st placing of the Class 5 (Extended or Sword class) has a good dorsal shape as the 3rd placing. For Sword tail, such dorsal shape earns good points!
Note : 1st placing by Guppy Center.
12. Probably the first time having an individual class for short tail, so my expectation should not be so high. But the strain types are commendable and are not as boring as Class 1. The disappointed part is the caudal shape – cannot find a single perfect round, spade or pin tail! Still many more rounds to go for perfection in this short tail class in the caudal shape.
13. One point I would like to highlight is the dorsal shape expectation in the short tail class. A good IFGA type standard dorsal is good while the long drooping type is to be avoided.
Note : Too short a dorsal for Short tail. 2nd placing by Jack Ng.
Note : A good dorsal shape for the Short tail. 3rd placing by Derrick Tan.
Note : Too long a dorsal for short tail and undefined caudal shape. 5th placing by Derrick Tan.
14. Another new class for this show – Half metal Class 7. Not so impressed by rather similar entries like 1/2 Metal Red Lace again. Also the same jagged caudal problem like the Class 4.
Hope to see more other strains entries like this compared to the usual Red Lace;
Note : A refreshing one by Jack Ng wins him 5th placing. An improvement in body marking will be good for this fish.
15. I’m impressed by the Breeders Class 1 (non pattern) Champion and also Grand Champion fish. Consistency is there for color, shape and size. Deportment is good and all fishes are lively and healthy at time of judging.
These are some of the major points I will look for in Breeders Class judging.
Note : Impressive entry by Ricky!
16. For the Breeders Class B2, I’m a bit disappointed with some imperfection like the caudal shape and jagged tail. Inconsistency among the male also. But sad to see 2 entries in this class without the female – as such the judges decide to disqualify it as it does not meet the show class requirement (4 males and 1 female).
Note : Good body marking but jagged tail by Lok Wing Kit.
The above are juz some of my personal views and hope the winners don’t take it to heart. Congratulations to all winners! Well Done!
Most of the breeders will tell you the shape of caudal and body to select for female when you wish to breed them. But not many will tell you the type of pattern and color to select for to produce what sort of male.
Here are my thoughts and experiments on such female caudals. It may not apply to all females spawn but nevertheless, in most of my trials – the results proved positive.
Female 1 type – With both darker (or can be blue or yellow or other color) streaks at the top and bottom of the caudal with center no color or pattern;
Such female usually produces male with patterns with center part less color and pattern; and also lyre look type of tail. Photos of such males are shown below;
This type of female caudal has evenly spread color and pattern. If your desired male is blue grass or blue based pattern, choose one female with more blue intensed blue color as below;
(Disregard the swallow extended fin – take it as without the swallow gene).
Used to produce such Male 2b;
Dots are not so well defined.
(Disregard the extended bottom fin of this swallow female; the more intense blue color and more defined dots are selected).
OK, finally found this female grass photo. This is a good example of a female grass with good patterns and color based for producing good male blue grass.
Such female will produce this type of male (better colored caudal with more defined dots).
If your desired male is like red grass like this Male 2c, then your female should be like Female 2a with less blue based color and more yellowish based for caudal. The caudal of the female has some darker shade of black will produce the male with a darker background color.
Such female color and pattern on the caudal is a bit confusing and tacky. A number of various strains of males can be produced using such similar female – males like albino full red, albino coral red grass, etc..
Albino Coral Red Grass – This male is produced using the above type of female. Go for more defined patterns and intensed red on the female caudal.
For albino coral red mosaic, the female is less red base and more yellow.
Albino coral red mosaic. Compared the female and male with the albino coral red grass.
To produce a good Half-Metal male (this photo shows a Half-Metal Cobra), use a female with darker black based caudal. It’s also good if there are some patterns of the male caudal).
Such female is used to produce the half-metal male. If a non-black based is used, the half-metal male (fore front part of the male body) pattern will not be well defined.
This is a female snakeskin (not in good finnage due to sickness) and you may see some similar pattern and color like the male. Snakeskin may be easiy available from the lfs but usually only the male and not female. So one may not visualise how a female snakeskin may be. Choose one that has similar pattern and color on the female caudal and dorsal as the male.
This is a male snakeskin. The father is a topsword snakeskin and of ‘wild’ type. You may see that the snakeskin pattern is not of IFGA standard with no much ‘interlocking’. Anyway, in this example – is to show how a female snakeskin like : female 6.
Below are posted by Michel Bruno;
Like you said:
This is a Lace Snakeskin`s female. Choose one that has clear pattern in the caudal and dorsal. Female with clear pattern produces males with more lace pattern.
This is a Lace Snakeskin`s male. You may see that the snakeskin pattern is IFGA standard.
Very often when we buy a female guppy together with the male, the female guppy is usually ‘prehit’. Also we may not know if the female was ‘prehit’ by the same strain or another. Only time can tell when the fries are big enough and that will take about 2 or more months.
If the female was ‘prehit’ by another strain, then it is difficult to wait for the female to completely ‘clear’ up all the unwanted strain sperm as the female can store the male sperm up to 5 to 8 birth.
Here is what I’ve read in some article;
One will have up to 3 days to breed your desired male with that ‘prehit’ female immediately after she has given birth.
The percentage given are just average. If you will to put your desired male together with the ‘prehit’ female immediately on the day it gives birth, you will have 75% of the next spawn where the father is from the desired one where 25% is from the previous father.
If you put the desired male one day after the female gave birth, the percentage is 50% from the new father and the other 50% from the previous father. So if it’s 3 days or 72 hours after giving birth, it’s 25% from new father and 75% from previous father. Now if on the 4th day or 96hrs after giving birth, you will not be having any chances from the new father but 100% from the previous father.
So to play safe, put the desired male in with the ‘prehit’ female within 3days after the female gave birth. I’m still waiting for a chance to try it, what about you?
This method of storing sperm is of great use in the guppies wild
habitat. Because of the constant moving water and mountains
(longterm) the fish are sometimes separated from the rest and
a few female fish have to set up a new population.
After the second mating (new partner) the outcome will be 50-50.
But in the future drops, the old sperm will play a greater part than
we expect. It’s probably all to improve genetic differenciation that
the old stored sperm is not just replaced with new.
So if you want to get a pure-breeding strain (or keep it) just never
use a prehit female if the male is unknown. Not even after a few
I’ve never heard of dropping sperm packs, maybe people here
mean dropping the undeveloped young (eggs) because of the stress?
Thats why we should avoid to move the female to give birth..
A male needs only 48 hours to get 100% of the females pregnant.
(When it’s the female’s first drop it will take some weeks extra)
So after giving birth you can put the male and female together and
after two or three days just remove the male. The female has her own
planted tank to give birth, no extra mouth to chase the young and no
1. First you need at least 2 bottles of such ‘kuay’ or PET container. Size is depending on the amount of BBS you required for your feed.
2. Best to change a new container every 3 to 6mths as these containers are not meant for reused. See the number in the triangle is Number 1.
3. Remember to rinse and wash with just tap water before and after use. Fill the container with tap water (if you are worried, you may add little water conditioner like Aquaplus, but I don’t) up to the line marking as shown;
4. Next add one scoop of Salt (normal table salt will do for me). The amount of salt to be added depends on the brand of bbs you buy. For me, I’m using this amount;
But the amount you can adjust accordingly. If you see the hatch rate is no good after 24hrs, increase the salt amount a bit by bit.
5. Always use a level scoop for the bbs egg. Depending on the hatch rate of the bbs brand, you may adjust the number of scoops required. Best to start with 1 scoop for a smaller container and if the hatch rate is no good, then increase by another scoop. For me, I use 2 scoops.
6. After putting in the bbs eggs, it’s done. Make a hole thru the cap of the container so that the air tube can goes thru. You can either put a airstone or tied a lead round the end of the tube.
Start with hatching of 1st container. After 24hrs you can harvest it and start feeding your fries. As you start feeding with the 1st container, start preparing the same with the 2nd container. Alternate the feeding using this 2 containers, i.e. after finish feeding using the 1st container, use the 2nd container for feeding which should be on the next day; then clean and prepare again for the 1st container.
7. For feeding of the hatched bbs, I use a dropper which can be cheaply purchased from any pharmacy. Depending on the number of fries and size of tanks, I usually drop 3 to 8 drops.
To me, it’s ok to suck in all the contents and drop into the fries tank which include the bbs, unhatched shell (which not to many usually) and the salt water.
Most of us feed the same types of food for our guppy males and females. But there are some researches done on the types of food that affect the fertility of female guppies.
Best type of food for high fertility are;
– Chopped Earthworm or Bloodworm
– Beef Heart
– Live tubiflex
– Hatched Baby Brine Shrimp
Type of food result in medium to low fertility are;
– Dry flake food
– Freeze dry brine shrimp and tubiflex
– White worms
Live food that are rich in fatty acids (earthworm and bloodworm) improves the fertility of females. Those feeding dried food like flake should choose those with a good amount of fatty acid if used for feeding females. The male / female ratios of the fry were about the same for all types of food. Those fed a diet high in plant protein also causes low fertility.
So if you wish to have a large spawn like 180 fries, choose bloodworms. Medium spawn like 50 fries choose flakes or freeze dried brine shrimp, low spawn of 10 fries or less, use bread will do.
Haha, see the pictures below and think before answering!
So do guppy have teeth and tongue? Haha, believed it or not, guppy have both teeth and tongue.
Guppies have teeth in their jaws and in the roof of their mouth as well. In the mouth there is a tongue.
Guppies have “pharyngeal teeth,” which are little growths of calcified tissue at the back of the oral cavity. The teeth are used to crush the food, but their is really not much force behind the crushing action.
The tongue however do not resemble the muscular tongues of humans. The tongue of a guppy is formed from a fold in the floor of the mouth.
Guppy Club (Singapore) made headlines in the local Chinese Paper Lian He Zao Bao. Interviews were conducted in Dr. Yeo’s house together with Chris Ng.
Here is the newspaper cutout;
Translated into English by me is found here;
Sorry if there is any error..
I’ve been asked this question and I think it may interest some of you : If I’m using a 4W OHF, how much will it cost me for my electricity bill in a month?
Power can be denoted by kW : same as 1000 W
Your electrical meter is in kWh and this is not Power but Energy!
Which means Energy = Power x Time : kW x hour of use.
For example, my Resun pump is 12 W and I on it for whole day in a month.
12W = 0.012kW
In 1 day, it’s Energy is 0.012 x 24hr = 0.288kWh
In 1 month (assuming 30days), it’s Energy consumption is 8.64kWh
Our electrical tarriff is $0.158 per kWh, so in 1 month it’s ;
8.64kWh x 0.158 = $1.37
So my 12W Resun pump costs me $1.37 per month in electrical bill.
For info, this is much lower than your computer consumption. Your pc may be running on a 250W or 300W power supply (of course actual consumption may be lower than that 250W or 300W rated max power). Assuming it’s actual power consumption is 200W and you use your pc for at least 8 hours a day and everyday in a mth; so your bill for using your pc in a mth will be approx. $7.58!
Of course, a 4W OHF consumption will be much lower than my 12W Resun pump.
Note : There must be some +/- for manufacturers overspec or underspec hehe. If I made a mistake in the above calculation, pls correct me, too long never do this already.